A Guide to Blood Bowl 2: Legendary Edition. By Ian Boudreau 04 Jan 2019 0. Of all the Warhammer-flavored properties in the Games Workshop stable, Blood.
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fantasy wargame. I always tell people that if I could only give them one piece of Blood Bowl advice when first getting started, it's that Blood Bowl is a game of risk mitigation and avoidance. If you don't have a REALLY good reason not to, start with stuff that requires no die roll at all, then move to your safest die rolls, and do the riskier stuff as the turn goes on. It's obviously not a rule to blindly follow 100% of the time, but it's a very good guideline to go by.And it's even easier now in BB2 since you see the odds of a lot of actions BEFORE you do them. A very simple very important tip: Do not use your apothecary on badly hurt, and especially not on knocked out.
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Your Ogre or whatever just suffered an injury and got Badly Hurt. Do not apothecary him. You use apothecary to prevent irreversible damage that needs a replacement player, such as -1 stat or straight up death.
When a player is badly hurt they will not play any more that match, but they do not actually take any permanent damage.I decided it was easier to explain with a crude depiction, so I made an image of two simple tips for your formation when kicking the ball.Team composition highly depends on your team and what you want to do. As a rule of thumb, no matter what your team is, max out on Blitzers.
You might want to use the apothecary on badly hurt in some instances, like when your best player is being hurt early in the game and it's difficult to win without him. Using apothecary on badly means he comes back the same match unlike serious hurt or dead (unless they changed that in BB2). I mostly agree on not using apotechary on knocked out but I can still see scenarios where you really need that guy still on the field to win.My rule is to never use the apotechary on simple linemen that can be replaced. It's only for the valuable players.I also don't recommend putting all big guys in the LOS. The rat ogre is for example quite fragile with AV 8. I keep my human ogre behind so he doesn't get hurt the first turn and so he can blitz the cage without leaving a tackle zone. He's an absolute beginner, he'll need to know the basics before he learns exceptions.
The tip certainly worked out for me when I was a beginner, because I wouldn't know when a player was an 'important player', and even worse, there's no way a beginner would know when to apothecary a knocked out player. I could tell him various exceptions to using the apothecary but I wanted to keep it simple.
That said, there are cases where if my star player is badly hurt very early on I don't feel very comfortable bringing him back against a mighty blow teamI specifically wrote to put big guys except those with the 'wild animal' skill on the line, the rat ogre is an example of a big guy with 'wild animal'. Notice how all the big guys with wild animal also have frenzy (and usually armour 8). That was what I was getting at. I'm kind of in the same boat as you, I bought the game two days ago and went 4-1-2 as orcs in multiplayer but have terrible records as anything else.Every guide I find assumes I don't understand anything and ends up lacking in substance outside of basic rules explanations.For example, I always lose as skaven because I can't deal with cages or get my gutter runners past the 50 yard line.If I google a skaven guide all the advice is painfully obvious and unhelpful. Like, I understand that skavens use gutter runners to get the ball to the endzone, but I have yet to find actual strategic/tactical advice on how to achieve that successfully.
Keep in mind an opponent gets a single blitz per turn, so if you create tackle zones between him and the ball carrier and don't let him mark your players, he either (1) dodges through your tackle zones which may or may not be scary depending on his agility, or (2) blitzes down one of your roadblocks and your ball carrier is safe for another turn. So make a tackle zone blanket between your gutter runner and the opposing team, and get ready to roll some dodge dice.As recommended, great articles on cage breaking, caging, and other strategies can be found at. Two tips:Play safely first, and then aggressively: The game rewards managing your risk carefully and doing the safe stuff first, but that doesn't mean that you should play passively.If your opponent gives you a free pass to his ball carrier, even if it's a 1 die or requires a GFI, do the safe stuff and then go for the ball. Good coaches aren't going to give you many obvious chances to steal the ball, and won't leave their cage open from many angles, so you need to sometimes push your luck and play aggressively in order to muck up their plans.Dealing with Big Guys: Big guys can be hard to deal with, and you need to force them to use their downsides to take themselves out of plays. They all have bad agility, so until they kill the guy that is basing him, blocking should be the only form of movement they have. Base him on a side facing away from the play.Remember how their negatraits work, and use them against the big guys.
If you don't base a piece with wild animal, or base and dodge away from him, the coach will be forced with either A) make a 4+ roll to do anything with him, or B) expend the blitz with the piece to make him more reliable. Know when to disengage from these guys. See that really stupid troll's friends? Try to knock them away from the troll. Try to isolate them so that they go from being a 2+ to do anything, to a 4+ to do anything.
Bone head is always a 2+, so try to put the piece in situations where he'll need to act in some minor way. Throwing a key block, or moving 1 or two squares to get in a better position. Run away from trees. They couldn't catch a mummy.Sometimes slow and steady wins the race, you have 8 turns to make a touchdown, take your time and secure a path to it, rushing into enemy lines without a idea of how you will get that guy alive to the end zone will often end up in fumbles.Know your race strengths and play to them. If you have a slow but strong race, punch your way to a win and gain advantages with numbers. If you have a slender but agile team then bait the defense to over commiting to one side and then out run them.Dont trust the dice, the dice is not your friend, the dice doesnt care you only need to roll a 2+ to make that that play to win.
Try to rely on it as little as possible, sometimes not calling all the blocks can help you, especially if you dont have two dice blocks. For a while I started getting really annoyed when I lost, like disproportionately. I would get frustrated easily, grumpy when I lost, etc. To combat that, I made myself play teams that lost all the time, like Ogres. It forced me to find other things to focus on than just winning.
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Just something to bear in mind if you're ever in the same boat:)What I learned from playing Ogres and Lizardmen is that don't be afraid to try something wacky, especially when things are looking very bad. Go with your gut. If your instinct is telling you 'You know what? You should dodge with that Saurus' then bloody well do it!Of course, this will probably just solidify the reasons as to why you should not do wacky things. Have fun!.
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